Team A/B Orange. International Fashion Promotion Students at MMU.

Tuesday, 13 December 2016

Chavvy Chic

gosha rubchinskiy young man smoking
"For years, the British population has been crossing the road to avoid that ominous gang of hooded youths, buying into the media fuelled fear surrounding that figure that will supposedly terrorise and assault us – the Chav."

Chavvy ChicFor years, the 'chav' subculture was a symbol of all things unfashionable. The typical chav uniform includes; tracksuit bottoms, trainers, hoodies and a knock-off Burberry cap. The Burberry plaid became synonymous with the underprivileged youth of Britain. Chav's are associated with the British working class youth and uneducated 'yobs', typically 'on the dole' in a council house. They are usually found watching trash tv, not working, hanging out on street corners and dropping out of school. 'Chavettes' are usually teen mothers. Peer pressure is amongst most chavs to participate in common chav behaviour that give the subculture a bad label. These activities include loutish behaviour, violence and particular speech patterns. Comedians such as 'The Wee Man', Vicky Pollard from Little Britain and Devvo, all act as stereotypical 'chavs' as a comedic act.


But what about the sportswear luxe trend? Do the British public avoid leaving the house in casual sportswear for fear of being wrongly judged? Or is it now considered 'trendy'? Sportswear luxe is a new developing trend on the high street and designer fashion scene. It is now considered 'cool' to sport the Adidas 'three-stripe' as bloggers and influential celebrities such as Kim Kardashian, are now donning the Adidas trackpants with everyday wear. So is the 'chav subculture' entering our everyday fashion, but rebranded? For example, vintage Reebok and Gosha Rubchiskiy are now using fashion photography as a way of approaching social media with their vintage tracksuits and skinhead models.

Posted by Rebecca Padgett

Chavvy Chic. (2016) Notjustalabel.com. [Online] [Accessed on 13 December 2016] https://www.notjustalabel.com/editorial/chavvy-chic.
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Chosen subculture- Chav's

As a group we discussed what subculture we would want to do for our final project and decided on chavs, we thought this would be a very broad subculture to research further. The definition of a chav is normally a young lower-class person typified by brash and loutish behaviour and the wearing of (real or imitation) designer clothes. Some say chavs wear fake designer clothes as I way for them to connect with society or get attention while other say they are trying to create their own rebellious type of style. The word 'chav' is connected to communities that have suffered social deprivation, which is why most come from lower working class backgrounds, because of the environment they are brought up in Chav's normally participate in crimes such as vandalism and shoplifting due to peer pressure. They feel as if they need to act a certain way to fit in which is why they can act rude and aggressive. 



The stereotype of a chav is to dress in branded sportswear, with tacky jewellery and hairstyles such as a high ponytail or shaved head.


Posted by Phoebe Paton.
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Monday, 28 November 2016

The Male Lolita

Lolita fashion is quickly gaining vast popularity within Japanese street style and is constantly evolving with the addition of numerous sub categories. One of these is the Male Lolita, and although commonly promoted in fiction, comics and animation, the style is still relatively unpopular within Japanese street style. However it is a growing sub category of Lolita fashion and is known by several different names.
These are Ouji, Kodona, Aristocrat, Dandy, and Brolita.

Ouji


Ouji, meaning 'prince' is a Japanese fashion that is considered the male version of Lolita fashion and takes its style from the Victorian era and young boy's clothing at the time.

Kodona

Kodona is a word used by people outside of Japan to describe gothic and Lolita clothing. The literal meaning however is 'someone being at puberty age who is neither an adult nor a child'. It is recognised as a fashion outside of Japan, but not so much in its country of origin.

Aristocrat

Aristocratic style is a lot more mature than pure Lolita style, however it does link to the male Lolita style when considering the gothic elements and colour palettes. It does link strongly with the Western 'Romantic Gothic'.
Corsets, fitted jackets with tail coats, frilly shirts, top hats and veils are some of the more common items of clothing worn.

Dandy


A Dandy is a man who finds physical appearance to be of high importance. The style was mainly around in late 18th and early 19th century Britain, and can now be linked to the male Lolita style with the jackets, knee high socks and frilly shirts.

Brolita


Unlike the more masculine forms of Lolita above, Brolitas are the ones who go the extra mile to look more feminine by wearing outfits including dresses and wigs.
Just like the female Lolita, they enjoy dressing in very fine Lolita clothing.

References




Posted By Megan Hinchcliffe




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Wednesday, 23 November 2016

Male Lolita



Our group was given the subculture ‘Male Lolita’ to research into. To start off I wanted to find out what the term lolita stood for, in Cambridge dictionary it stated it was “a young girl who has a very sexual appearance or behaves in a very sexual way”. However when further researching it I found out that Lolita fashion is a subculture in Japan highly influenced by the Victorian and Edwardian era. The subculture is best known for its cross over into Gothic style and the wide array of sub-styles represented by it’s practitioners. The fashion normally includes skirts or dresses to their knees, a petticoat, long monochromatic socks, and a wide array of accessories covered in lace or ribbon. Often looking childlike or like a doll.

A male Lolita is not as popular as a female and has far less information online, however from finding pictures I discovered they also wear knee high socks with Victorian style shorts and jackets. They also look doll like with the frilly shirts and ribbons round their neck. Most their clothes seem to crossover into the gothic subculture as they dress mainly in black or white.

The news media in Japan usually portrays Gothic/Lolita as they have previous youth cultures: as a social problem and a moral panic that embodies the declining morals of Japanese youth. Over the past few years Lolita-related books, movies, comics and internet sites have rapidly increased at a great rate, but most activity has occurred in the past six years, during which two hit Gothic/Lolita-oriented magazines went on sale: Gosurori (the Japanese abbreviation for Gothic & Lolita) and The Gothic & Lolita Bible.

As a youth culture, Gothic/Lolita dates back to the 1990s. It was first inspired by devotees to Mana, the cross-dressing guitarist for the Japanese rock band Malice Mizer. The name indicates its distinctive hybrid style: it combines gosu, a Japanized version of Western “Goth” fashion, music, and hobbies with Victorian/Edwardian-inspired doll-like clothes and fairy-tale motifs called rorÄ«ta, or “Lolita”


Refrences


Gagné, I. (2008), Urban Princesses: Performance and “Women's Language” in Japan's Gothic/Lolita Subculture. Journal of Linguistic Anthropology, 18: 130–150. doi:10.1111/j.1548-1395.2008.00006.x


Posted by Phoebe Paton. 
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Perv Subculture Presentation

We were asked to produce a PowerPoint presentation on our given subculture. We were given the subculture of the Perv. Here is our 5 minute presentation. Our feedback from this was that we needed to look into the past of agent provocateur, the recent books of 50 shades of grey and look into the current perv subculture more to see who they are wearing right now. - Becky





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Monday, 21 November 2016

GFC HIPSTER

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PERVS SUBCULTURE

We were asked to gather information on the subculture 'Pervs' and gather imagery to create a moodboard project in our seminar.
We started by researching in the 'Pervs' subculture and their history. We gathered imagery that we thought related to the Perv subculture. A book by Ted Polhemus called 'Subcultures' proved to be the best source of imagery and information. It included information on the Vivienne Westwood sex shop and the Skin Two nightclub. - Becky





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HIPSTER SUBCULTURE

The Origins of the hipster.fw

We were asked to research into the hipster subculture in Manchester, to find out if the hipster was dying. We started off by researching into the history of the hipster and we found that "The word hipster was first used back in the 1940s. It was used to describe a particular subculture that had evolved in America during which and directly linked to the popularity of Jazz music during the 1940s. There are different opinions on how the word actually came about, but the most common one is that the word hipster came from the word “hip” meaning “in the know” and was commonly used as an adjective to describe enthusiasts of the jazz music scene. The English suffix “ster” was added and the term “hipster” was born, being defined as “characters who like hot jazz”."


We then looked into what the 1940's subculture of the hipster were like and their ways of life.
"Initially hipsters were middle class white American youths. During a time of war, resistance and racial segregation groups of middle-class white youths rejected the social norms of the time and the extravagant lifestyles of the higher classes seeking a more carefree and spontaneous lifestyle. They embraced jazz music and the culture that came with it. Jazz musicians were predominantly African American and these middle-class white youths, looked to imitate the lifestyle of the musicians they looked up to along with young urban blacks. Jazz clubs were where these hipster groups went to socialise leading to a fusion of races in hipster culture.
These young people were focused on enjoying life, music and differentiating themselves from the upper classes and their orderly way of life. Adopting opposite views on life from what was expected – they used cannabis and other drugs, embracing a relaxed attitude to life, sarcastic humour and self-inflicted poverty."
Then we looked into the modern day hipster.
"Over the years the word hipster has adopted a completely different meaning. The hipster of the 1940s sought out people similar to themselves, growing friendships and developing bonds based on their mutual interest in jazz music and like views on societal issues. They gladly associated themselves with the subculture. A new generation of urban living young people have unwillingly adopted the subculture’s name and today’s hipster culture is less about the community building and more focused on their individual image. Similarly to earlier hipsters, modern day hipsters are not necessarily from lower classes but choose to look like they do, keeping an earthy, grungy image. They embrace anything obscure and appreciate any kind of alternative culture, be it film, music, or art.



Probably the most obvious sign of a male hipster/hipster wannabe is their facial hair situation. Everyone has noticed the influx of beards in recent times. Yes, hipster style is to thank for making it acceptable for young men to grow, or at least try to grow, full beards, which would have typically been associated with older men. These beards come in different lengths and styles but all are well maintained to deceptively achieve that rough appearance. Some hardcore hipsters even incorporate the “handlebar” moustache which requires extra styling and maintenance. After paying a lot of attention to their facial hair you could forgive hipster guys for being lazy with the hair on their head – but lazy they are not. Short around the sides with the top slicked back ever so carefully. Regular trips to the barber are required to keep you looking in peak hipster condition.

How to grow a hipster beard

Simply grow a hipster beard by starting from an even length. This could be a clean shaven face or a trimmed beard. Just make sure that it starts at an even length. give it approximately 6 weeks from a clean shaven length to get to a decent length. You should be aiming for at least a half of an inch of beard length in the hipster beard (this is about 1.5 centimetres).

Once you have achieved a length that you are happy with, simply maintain the length with scissors or, if you keep your beard on the short side, then use a beard trimmer. The good thing about the hipster beard is that it should look shaggy or somewhat unkempt, so you can get away with only using scissors and making the occasional length cutting mistake.

We then discussed where we might find a hipster in Manchester, for example, we reviewed their shopping habits and typical day to day life and we came to a conclusion that the best place would be the Northern Quarter and Afflecks Palace. The shops in there have an altenative style and house several tattoo parlours. We thought that this would be the best place to find our hipsters.

After finding our hipsters and interviewing them, we explored the Northern Quarter and Afflecks Palace to gather inspiration and leaflets for our video and research journals.
We then discussed how to put together our video by creating a visual storyboard and reading aloud different findings and research from the internet about the hipster to include in our video.

After the presentation, we reviewed our feedback. The feedback included;

  • Adding a summary or a conclusion to the video to reflect on what we had learnt and discovered about the subculture.
  • Taking more from the video, questioning everything. Why didn't they like to call themselves hipsters?
  • Secondary and Primary research.
  • Consider sound and video quality and composition.
  • Interview more than needed and choose the best ones.
  • Don't just take head to toe shots, consider shoes and detailing.
  • Find people who are passionate about their appearance.
- Becky







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